BUT...
Those darn reeds! They will make or break a player - often in the same rehearsal.
How can you help yourself out here? Unlike clarinet and saxophone (and there are single-reed pros out there who will also insist that this isn't the case), machine made reeds just don't cut it, and you can't select from a box of 10. The ideal situation is to learn how to make them yourself. Initial costs can be expensive, but once you are set up, the cost per reed is much cheaper than buying them. Making reeds is not 'hard', but it does require attention to detail, trial and error and you will need to learn that you will make some horrendous sounding 'reeds' before you can start making useable ones. Like learning the instrument itself, it is a process. (If you think you are at this point, I offer reed making lessons).
If making reeds isn't yet on your to do list, you still need to learn how to adjust them and look after them. There are a few guidelines to get started on this journey.
1. Make sure you always have multiple WORKING reeds. Three is a minimum. Rotate them each time you play, and try to have reeds in your case that are of various ages, so they don't all die at once. Which leads me to...
2. Keep them in a case. A good case. Cases can be expensive, but so are reeds - look after them! Cases with ribbon holders (reeds fit into a slot), as opposed to mandrel holders (reeds slide onto a stem), are best, as reeds that do not fit the mandrels correctly can slide off and damage their tips on the inside of the case (learnt from experience). Your reed case should have a place for at least 6 reeds, or 20 if you make your own reeds. Make sure your reed case has ventilation, and regularly keep the lid open if you have been playing a lot in order to allow the reeds to dry properly. Constantly wet reeds can attract mould and will die faster.
3. Learn how to adjust your reeds and get the tools needed for the job.
Adjusting reeds
The minimum tools you will need for this job are:
- A knife (bevelled knives are easiest for students to sharpen - cheaper knives are available from Rigotti, and as you progress, you can get a better quality knife, such as a Landwell, my knife of choice). Make sure that if you get a bevelled knife that you get the correct hand - they are specific to left and right hand use. Other kinds of knives include hollow ground, double hollow ground and razor.
- A plaque - this is a small piece of plastic/metal/wood that sits between the blades of the reed so that it doesn't collapse and crack under the pressure of scraping. You should have a flat and a contoured plaque (I keep several of each as they are small and easy to lose)
- A pair of flat-nosed craft pliers (if your reeds come with wire on them)
- Razor blades
- A cutting block - choose one which is not too small and has a gentle curvature on top
- Plumbers' tape
You will notice that some of these items you will find in non-music stores. The double reed specific items can sometimes be found in your local music store, but you will have more choice in brands, styles and prices if you shop around online.
So I have the tools...what do I do with them?
The best way to learn how to adjust reeds is to practice your techniques on old dead (or almost dead) reeds. You don't want to go messing up your working ones if you aren't sure what you are doing!
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| Supporting the reed |
The first thing you need to do is learn how to scrape. Put a plaque in between the blades of your reed (don't push it in too far or you may wind up making the reed leak). Hold the reed in your left hand (reverse all instructions if you are left handed). Support the blades from underneath with your left index finger and stabilise the reed on top using the joint of your left thumb. Place the knife perpendicular to the reed, support the top of the knife blade with the tip of your left thumb, and use a forward-moving swinging motion to gently scrape cane towards the tip. Do this a few times on a dead reed to get used to the feeling of just scraping. Try scraping at different angles - straight down the centre of the reed to the tip, along the rails (the sides) to the tip, and on a diagonal towards the corners of the tip. You will soon learn how hard you can push before you either crack the reed or leave gouges in the cane. Always work in good light (LED or fluorescent light tends to show up the imperfections the best).
Here are some basic adjustments to try. Note that these adjustments apply to European (short) scrape reeds only, which is the most common type of oboe reed used in Australia.
Reed too soft: Firstly, start by using your pliers to gently squeeze the sides of the wire, opening up the tip. If this doesn't help, or makes the reed too fuzzy, return the wire to the opening it originally had. Try scraping the rails (sides) a bit thinner - this tricks the reed into thinking it has more 'meat' in the middle than it does. If it still needs more and the sides are looking a bit thin, the last resort is to clip the tip using a razor blade and cutting block. Make sure you soak the reed for several minutes before doing this otherwise it will crack. Take as small a slice straight across the tip as you possibly can (like a hair width), trying the reed between each clip. You will be amazed at how much of a difference such a small amount can make!
Reed too hard: Start with your pliers and gently squeeze the wire a little more closed. If this doesn't work, return the wire to the original opening and try doing a gentle 'all over' scrape. Be wary of taking too much from the heart, which is the area in the centre of the reed below the tip. I like to scrape from the bottom left corner of the U all the way to the right corner of the tip, and repeat from right to left. This prevents all the scrape coming out of the heart.
Can't play low notes: Low notes are almost entirely to do with the base of the scrape, the U. Scrape a little deeper at the absolute base and taper the scrape as you go higher, focusing mostly on the sides of the U. This technique will also lower the pitch of a sharp reed. Be careful to test as you go, because if you take out too much, you will affect the high notes. If you are still not able to play low notes, the reed may be just a little hard in general.
Reed is flat: Clip the tip of the reed and make the tip a little thinner/longer if it needs it (i.e. if it wasn't too soft to start with).
Reed sounds like a duck/has a shrill sound: Scrape only the corners of the tip (preferably on a diagonal) very gently. Make sure the scrape follows through past the tip - you do not want a ridge left behind. Do not take any cane out of the heart or the middle of the tip as you will only make the problem worse!
Reed is resistant even though it seems soft enough/the cane seems thin enough: This usually means there is a leak between the two blades, which you can sometimes see in good light. If your reeds are wired, this is less common, but it can still happen. Use a very small amount of plumbers tape (about 2cm) and wrap around the reed, using half the thickness to cover the thread and the other half to cover the base of the reed. If this still doesn't fix the problem, try scraping the extreme tip (i.e. the last 0.1mm) a little thinner. Resistance can sometimes mean a reed is dead. Leaks can also occasionally 'repair' themselves with changes in weather - if none of the above fixes the issue, put the reed away and try again next season.
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With practice, you will get better at identifying the problem and being able to match the correct fix to it. Don't put up with (or throw out) half-working reeds, adjusting them is a much better solution!
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